Posts Tagged With: vacation

Gringo With A Green Bag – 2014 Wish List

Posted on December 31, 2013 by Damian James

Wow, is it time to cue up “Auld Lang Sine” already?? Yes it is! A New Year is upon us…2014! This is 1 year before the “future” that Doc and Marty visited in Back to the Future Part 2. Dude…the future is NOW! Though flying skateboards & cars haven’t yet reached the market, we have seen an incredible boom in amazing technology over the past few years, much of it which now dictates how most of us operate in our daily lives (as I type this from my new wrist watch…j/k). But there are many things that I feel deserve to be reflected upon and re-focused on as we swap a new 4th digit out on the yearly calendar. Real life issues and challenges (from long before the pre- smart phone era) will always exist and there isn’t a damn thing Siri can do about them (except for give you directions to the nearest pharmacy so you can load up on more Xanax). I’ve put together a list of a few things that I hope we, the people, could all focus on more (or less) and some of my personal wishes for 2014. The goal of the Gringo With A Green Bag isn’t just about going places and taking pretty pictures. It’s about life-changing experiences. It’s about understanding the world better, thus allowing us to co-exist in a more peaceful and harmonious fashion (channeling my inner Nelson Mandela here). So please allow me to share a few thoughts with you as we get ready to wrap up 2013 and wish everyone a Feliz Año Nuevo!

Here’s the Gringo With A Green Bag’s Wish List for 2014:

1. Keep Our Heads Up – It doesn’t matter where you are these days, the all-too-familiar scene of the collective head-down and thumbs massaging the screens of our mobile devices is now the norm. It’s become an obsession, a way of life, the human communication enabler (and suppresser). I’m guilty of it too, so I’m including myself in this one (as with the rest of these). How many of you looked across the table at Christmas or Thanksgiving dinner only to notice the bald spot on the top of one of your family member’s heads? Or someone at a ball game missing a touchdown because they were too busy taking selfies with their nachos and duck face? In 2014, I hope we can all keep our heads up just a little more and pay attention to the real world that surrounds us directly, make more eye contact, put the device down for a day or two and enjoy life how it was back in the old days (no, I don’t expect anyone to pop a quarter into a pay phone at 7-11 and flip through the yellow pages while munching on a Chick-O-Stick…you know what I’m sayin’). Let’s at least try to get through an occasional meal without obsessively looking to see who liked our “check-in” at Big Mama’s Rib Shack . I understand, we love to brag about what we’re eating. I do it all the time. Enjoy the meal and focus on the company you are enjoying it with. Tweet about how awesomely delicious it was when you’re done (after licking the bbq sauce off your fingers).

2. Change of Scenery – Whether it’s seeing new part of town, taking a new route to work, trying that new restaurant you pass by every day, visiting a different state or exploring another country…change in scenery is always a refreshing thing. For me, routine = boredom. A low-flowing or stagnant river produces higher levels of bacteria. Be a well-flowing river. If things become static in your life, change course and direction and refresh your senses often. Example: I got tired of seeing the same old faces on the same old machines at my local gym this past year and I began to dread going at a certain “routine” hour because of it. I found myself losing motivation at times to go to the gym and making excuses, so I decided to go to the gym across town a few times to break the monotony. It was a really refreshing change, and my max bench press went from 195 lbs -270 lbs overnight! Haha, of course I’m full of it…but I did feel a renewed motivation to work out longer and more often in my new surroundings, with new equipment and around fresh faces. For me, travel is the ultimate refresher. Travel stimulates the mind and enriches the soul. (It can enhance the body too if you’re motivated to get in shape to strut your stuff along that beach while on vacation.) You don’t necessarily have to go far from home though. Switch up your routine and you may find a surprising new motivation to get up and get things done.

3. Eat More Tomatoes, Avocados, Sweet Potatoes, Huevos (eggs), Pollo (chicken) (basically any food that ends in “o”…except Oreos and Cheetos) – Like I once told myself: “Never underestimate the power of V-8!” If we all ate more tomatoes and avocados we’d all have healthier hearts. Healthy hearts pump clean blood into the brain which produces healthy minds. I’m no doctor, I just like to promote a healthy lifestyle. We need to be good to our bodies and they will be good to us in return. You all know the health food pyramid from 5th grade, I don’t have to explain it. My favorite health foods are avocados, tomatoes, flax seeds, açai, and wheat grass…and plenty of good protein (fish, yogurt, etc.). I don’t plan on totally cutting out the beer, Red Vines or Thin Mints anytime soon, so I’m just gonna have to load up on more of the aforementioned health goodies to curb the guilt trip…and revert back to wish list item #2 to preserve that gym motivation.

4. Take Chances – Why not, right? Let’s quit saying “someday” or “I wish”. A life of regret is a life of opportunity wasted. Make a career move. Make a sacrifice to get better results. Try some brain tacos. Yes, they’re nasty. But I tried them recently and now I know from experience. While in Maui recently, I had about 10 people tell me not to go to the island of Molokai because it is “boring”. I ended up having the best time of the entire trip while in Molokai. Discover things for yourself and don’t be swayed by people’s opinions. Don’t be afraid to fail. Don’t be afraid of the unknown. Like I always say, exploring the unfamiliar always leads to fresh ink in the diary of life.

5. Pause – While on that same trip to Hawaii in November, I found myself rushing through the first 2 days of the trip to cram in as much as I could see in the limited time I had on the island of Maui. I kept a frenetic pace without really taking the time to stop and appreciate the bounty of beauty that made up my surroundings. Maui’s famous “Road to Hana” does this to many travelers. It’s an all-day journey to an “Oz-like” destination (in the minds of many visitors) to a place called Hana. Many people speed through to get to Hana only to realize that the journey along the way was the real adventure, not the town of Hana itself. As in the movie, there’s no wizard there. Just a guy behind a counter selling fresh fruit and timeshare info. It’s the journey and everything you see along the way that makes this one of the most special parts of the world to visit. A few hours in, I decided to slow it down, pull over and just pause for a bit. I took a little walk through an unmarked part of the forest. It was the most beautiful hike I would do on the island. I smelled the flowers and tropical fruits, listened to the singing of a Red-crested Cardinal and enjoyed the calming sound of the crashing waves nearby. This was the Maui I had come to see (best to be seen on foot rather than through the window of a rental car). Truth is, it’s not how much you see, but how you look at and experience the things that you see. Another example was on a trip to Canada last year. I was on an all-day solo hike through the Canadian Rockies. It got a bit lonely after about 8 hours of hiking and no one to talk to and I found myself rushing to complete the hike before sundown and return to civilization. A little butterfly flew next to me and followed me along my path for about 20 seconds. It was the only company I had all day, and it felt like my best friend at the moment. A few moments of pause with this wonderful and curious creature was among the highlights of my trip. Made me smile. I say it’s best to experience one thing in a special way than to fly through many things and leave with no lasting memories.

6. Green Bay Packers win Super Bowl – Is that too much to ask?

7. Milwaukee Brewers finish above .500 – That’s definitely not too much to ask. Just give me an 82-80 season fellas. I’ll consider that a winning season.

8. Understanding Happiness – Yes, the Green Bay Packers winning the Super Bowl would bring me great “happiness”. But that is only a temporary happiness. I truly believe that happiness comes from within. You have to be happy with yourself if you ever plan on living a happy life, or making someone else happy. It starts with you. It shouldn’t take much. I think we overanalyze the meaning of it. I’ve been really fortunate to travel to parts of the world where I believe I’ve learned the true meaning of happiness. People who are happy just because they are alive. They have everything they need, in the form of family, food, shelter, health and minimal stress. It has nothing to do with wealth, cars, iphones, luxury homes, social status, popularity, etc. I see plenty of people with all that on a daily basis who are no where near achieving the level of happiness that I have seen with people I’ve met on my travels to many “3rd World” and underprivileged countries. If you’re not happy with your situation, do your best to improve it. If you can’t improve it, do your best to change it. We’re all responsible for our own happiness, and our expectations of what it means to be happy should come from within, not by comparison to others. That reminds me…while you’re at it, peep that new Pharrell Williams song “Happy”. That’s the jam right there!

9. Focus On Important and Positive Things – This goes out on a personal level, but also as a message to the Media. We are done keeping up with the Kardashians, seriously. Less coverage of the Dennis Rodman bromance with Kim Jong-Un would be super. Do we really care that Lindsay Lohan has suffered her 10th relapse in 9 days when we have soldiers fighting and dying for our freedom on a daily basis? Let’s focus on people who deserve to be talked about, like our military heroes and philanthropists from around the world. If you’re gonna obsess about celebrities, please cover celebrities who are humanitarians and do a great deed for charity, like the late Paul Walker. As for us on an individual level, I hope we can all maintain a habit of focusing on the positives more than the negatives. “I hate my job” or “my job is too stressful” can also be viewed as “I’m just happy to have a job” or “It’s only temporary until I find something better”. I don’t have a new car and I sit in traffic frequently, but I have a car and the freedom to drive wherever I want. It’s a luxury we take for granted, believe me. (I’m still gonna complain about that gas price though, grrr)

10. Kill The Political Drama – We’ve witnessed a full year of complete bi-partisan bullshit in politics. Holding the country hostage for the sake of political theatre and ego is deplorable. I don’t know how it works in other countries, but ours has not been a proud example of a functional democracy here in the U.S. in recent years. Both sides of government are to blame for this. Remember that song “We’re All In The Same Gang”? Time to record a 2014 version for our government. If it can work for gangsters, it can surely work for congressmen.

11. Don’t Text And Drive – Seriously…IT CAN WAIT. I’m sure an anti-texting-while-driving app is in the works. If not, I have some ideas and you may be seeing me on Shark Tank in the near future!

12. HAVE A WONDERFUL NEW YEAR 2014!!!

Categories: Travel | Tags: 2014, Canada, Dream, Dreams, Goals, Green Bay Packers, Happiness, Happy, Hawaii, Health, Hope, Inspiration, lake, Life, love, Maui, Milwaukee Brewers, Molokai, nature, New Year, Politics, Positive, Relationships, Resolutions, river, Scenery, Technology, The World, Travel, vacation | Leave a comment

Beyond the surface – exploring Mexico’s “underworld”

Posted on August 2, 2013 by Damian James

What if I told you I knew of a little place on the map where its truest beauty runs deep beyond the surface? A dark, sacred world that nourishes the roots of the storied land above it. A mystifying place where an ancient civilization once conducted ceremonies of worship and made sacrifices to its dieties. What would you say if I told you that for a few dollars and a shower you can visit this exotic and mysterious world and swim in its pure, crystalline waters under a natural dome of stalactites, subterranean roots and Neotropical bats? You’d most likely freak out with excitement at the opportunity…or simply just freak out. This isn’t a theme park attraction at Universal Studios folks. This is an amazing natural feature of the ancient Mayan land. These are the unique sites found in Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula: Cenotes.

I had first heard of the cenotes (natural water-filled sinkholes) while researching my initial trip to the Yucatán several years back. Like most travelers to this part of the world, all I knew about this area was that you can climb a pyramid in the jungle, spend your days lazing on a dreamy beach and that there is a mega nightclub named after a frog somewhere in the city that represents the world’s premiere Spring Break playground. I had no idea that there was action beneath the action…like people swimming underground, diving through a network of water-forged cave passages and taking photos in their swimsuits and snorkel masks with insectivorous bats flying overhead…all while the rest of the world above is busy footslogging through Mayan ruins, sipping colorful rum concoctions and applying Aloe Vera to their sun-baked backsides. This created a fascinating level of intrigue to me…and to honor rule #3 in my Gringo With A Green Bag Travel Handbook: When the Gringo is intrigued, the Gringo must explore!

So, months later, I found myself on the outskirts of a little village called Chunkanán in the heart of the Yucatán. I was here because my research, and some trusted natives, pointed me in the direction of a town called Cuzama, where they said some of the best cenotes were located. I had heard that there was a way to see 3 amazing cenotes via a guided horse-drawn “truck” tour in this town, which lies only a short 45 minutes from the Yucatán capital of Mérida. But my introduction to the cenotes would not happen via this tour, rather via a result of my independent traveler-intrigued mind and faulty navigation, which led me to mistakingly pass the town of Cuzama and end up parked near a sign on the side of a dirt road several miles away that read “Cenote Aktun-Ha”. There were no tour guides here, no horses, no people, no rental cars, no hotels or post-card stands…my idea of paradise my friends! I had to see what the hype was with these cenote things. So, left turn down a road seemingly to nowhere…this is how it’s done.

I arrive at a traditional Mayan thatched hut with a few dogs outside and some children’s toys and clothing scattered throughout the area. A woman comes out of the home with a little girl by her side and I greet them with a “buenos dias”. I told the woman that I was looking for the cenote. She pointed to an area behind the house and said that she would lead me over to it. She politely asked for a donation of about 40 pesos ($3) to see the cenote. I eagerly paid her, and suddenly found myself face to face with this…

“Whooooooaaaaaa!”, I uttered in Spanish (it translates the same, I think)…then proceeded to back up a bit.

Are you kidding me?? Now I’ve done some risky & adventurous stuff in my lifetime, and have always come out alive, but usually I can see what the hell I’m getting myself into. I can’t even see the bottom of this thing! It’s pitch black down there! Holy Sinkhole, Batman! Heck, even the Dark Knight himself would probably think twice about scaling down that iron death rail. As a matter of fact, that’s exactly what it is…an old rail track from the henequen industry days, welded to another one below and converted into a ladder. Look at how it’s rigged…rusted chains and weathered rope bound to a suspect piece of rock…is there an insurance policy included in that 40 pesos?? And what was that other rope for? To carry out the remains of unfortunate tourists who never made it back up?? Ok, calm down…after a few deep breaths and a reinforced blessing of confidence by my host, I tightened the straps of my green bag, checked the structural integrity of the ladder and headed down into the darkness.

Descending the vertical railway into this dusky cavern was an adventure all to itself. It felt sturdy enough (a bit wobbly), but at about 40 feet up from the bottom, there was ZERO room for error. One slip and you’ll be considered the next sacrificial subject to the Mayan Rain God, Chaac. I slowly lowered myself down in true baby step form, headed towards a glimmer of water down below at the base. (You really don’t want to look down, as they always say.) I noticed a good number of spider webs criss-crossing the corroded metal frame that was functioning as my life support, which led me to wonder when the last time was that someone had actually been down here. Then, all of the sudden I hear an eerily familiar “squeek, squeek” sound. Yup…you guessed it…freakin’ BATS! Two feisty bats zipped right across my head, with several others hanging from the ceiling of this crazy underground Legend of Zelda looking labyrinth, which just made me want to get to the bottom faster. I finally get to the last few steps and find them submerged in about a foot of water. Damn. Off go the shoes I guess. There just happened to be a bucket within reach on the end of that rope, which I’m sure is intended for retrieving water and not for storing Nike cross-trainers. But walking around all day with soggy feet sucks, so it served a practical purpose for me.

Once I was able to secure my footing and get a 360 degree view of this place, I was left stunned. You can’t even imagine that something like this exists below the ground above, which is pretty much a flat, consistent layer of porous scrub jungle. This was an outer-worldy underworld. What time was the warlock returning to close his sky roof I wondered? It’s obvious why the Maya viewed the cenotes as sacred sites and portals to the next life. This place emitted strong metaphysical vibes concealed under a dome of unimaginable beauty. The fresh cenote water (home to a rare species of eyeless fish) is as strikingly blue and clear as you’ve ever seen. Formations of stalactites and stalagmites above and below face off like armies on opposite ends of a battlefield. The air was thin & humid and I was melting like a snow cone in Sedona. A splash of crisp cave water on the face never felt more refreshing. I spent a good 45 minutes down here all by myself (except for those bats dangling overhead), photographing the details of this murky and fascinating underground lair while sweat steadily dripped down on my dewey camera with the frequency of a metronome. This was an amazing experience. And to think, had that little section of limestone rock not caved in from above, this place would have never be seen by a human being. That’s the beauty of the cenotes…there are literally thousands of these throughout the peninsula, most of them still undiscovered. Luckily for us, many of them have been discovered, and you don’t have to go far from wherever you are in the Yucatán to see one. Now, hold that ladder lady, I’m comin’ back up!

Since that initial Indiana Jones escapade down into my first cenote, I’ve had the opportunity to explore many more, and they are all glorious. They definitely earn top rank as the highlight of my experiences in the Yucatán Peninsula. Besides their remarkable beauty, they are all so unique in size, ambience and form. While most are found underground (easy to access, thanks to the locals who maintain them), there are also many that lie right on the surface. To attempt to describe each one with a worthy level of descriptiveness would grossly over-estimate my ability to do so. Therefore, I’ll shut up and let the images do the talking. All I can say is, if you come to the Yucatán, kick off your shoes, put your adventure hat on and get to know these unique natural wonders that the Maya dubbed “Ts’onots” (“wells”), referring to any place with accessible groundwater. Some are more easily “accessible” than others (as I learned from my first cenote experience), but the true adventure lies in one’s willingness to explore the unknown.

Contrary to popular belief, the Mayans never attempted to predict the “end of the world”. However, they were among the lucky few to discover sites like these…where the physically familiar world we know ends, and an unfamiliar one begins. That, my friends, is what draws me to travel. Encounters with the unfamiliar always result in fresh ink in the diary of life experiences. So get your pens ready and add Mexico’s cenotes to your bucket list. Just don’t forget your shoes on the way out. 😉

Categories: Travel | Tags: adventure, caves, cenotes, diving, Latin America, Maya, Mayan, Mayan jungle, Mexico, nature, Nikon, photography, snorkeling, swimming, Travel, underground, underworld, vacation, Yucatan, Yucatan Peninsula | 1 Comment

A quick hop around Kangaroo Island, Australia

Posted on July 8, 2013 by Damian James

For me, traveling to Australia was a BIG deal mates. BIG country, BIG planning, BIG airplane, BIG fella sitting next to me on the plane stealing all my elbow space, etc. I had a long list of things that I wanted to do and see on this trip. There was the obvious, of course: see the Sydney Harbor, try a Vegemite sandwich, guzzle cold Aussie beer at some pubs, avoid severe sunburn, see some kangaroos. Of all those, the latter was the most important on my list. I mean c’mon, who hasn’t watched Jack Hanna or Steve Irwin play with the ‘roos on TV and not thought that would be the coolest thing ever?? I wanted to see some ‘roos. Plain and simple. You can’t go to Australia and not see the ‘roos. It’s like going to Chicago and not eating a Polish dog…or seeing a Polish person for that matter. And I’m not talking about seeing them in the Sydney zoo man. They’ve got ‘roos at the San Diego Zoo an hour and a half drive south of me. I don’t need to fly 7500 miles to view a wallaby in a playpen. I’m talking in the wild…untamed, free-roaming, curious…the way nature was meant to be enjoyed! So I booked a side trip to a remote place off the coast of South Australia called Kangaroo Island. Not that a place’s nomenclature necessarily guarantees the existence of its particular reference (the “Island of Women” near Cancun is a perfect example. But hey, whatever draws tourists), but it sounded intriguing. I did my research, like the savvy traveler I am. This was the place to see and be seen (if you’re a kangaroo looking for a good time, that is :P). Besides the surging population of ‘roos, I heard this island was one of the most wildly beautiful places on the entire continent. Sounded like a hot ticket…book it!

After a week traveling the amazing East Coast of Australia (where I hadn’t seen one stinkin’ ‘roo the entire time, wth??), it was time to punch my ticket to the island. The ferry ride over from Cape Jervis was a beautiful and relaxing 45-minute voyage to a remote piece of land in the Indian Ocean, far enough removed from the mainland to validate its “wild” reputation. My first impression upon seeing the rugged coastline and piercing blue waters: “Yeah baby, it’s on! I’m gonna go buckwild photographing this place!”. I guess that doesn’t really say a whole lot, since I have the same reaction when I arrive to a family reunion or a local chili cook-off. But lemme tell ya, this place is special…and you can sense it before you even get off the boat. The port town of Penneshaw is very accommodating. I was treated to an upgrade 4WD SUV vehicle when I arrived at the rental agency, as my reservation had been lost in cyberspace, which worked out to be perfect since it would serve as my hotel during this 2-day excursion. It was also an ideal vehicle to have while driving along the many dirt roads that make up the island’s transit terrain.

At first sight, the island seemed like a bushman and fisherman’s dream. It’s craggy interior and over 340 miles of pristine coastline creates such a dramatic contrast that I was salivating to get my camera out and start going photo bonkers. I took the first unpaved road I saw and began to explore the unspoiled wonders of this vast adventure-seeker’s paradise. I saw landscapes here straight out of the imagination of a fine-art painter’s dream portfolio. Things just look different here. The ultra-golden hues produced by the sun created colors that were indescribable. The terrain is so diverse and raw. The trees are wicked-crazy looking. The colors of the dirt roads are a deep hue of reddish-orange. The sky and sun seem more intense. The beaches are awe-inspiring. You’ll see bizarre things like the Remarkable Rocks, huge naturally-carved boulders over-looking the sea that look like something out of a Tim Burton movie. Animals roam freely about the land and the roads wind like a maze through the thick vegetation and hilly island turf. It is “wild” as advertised, and you won’t see many people once you leave the arrival port of Penneshaw. As a matter of fact, the further you get away from the coastal towns, the more you get that feeling that you are all alone on an isolated island full of insane beauty and teeming wildlife, just teasing you to be explored at every turn. It would be wise to stock up on gas, water and Peanut M&M’s at one of the towns near the eastern end of the island (Kingscote, Penneshaw or American River), as it’s just you, the native wallabies and the birds & the bees for the majority of your drive throughout the island. (Not the birds & the bees your mom told you about in the 3rd grade. Kangaroo Island is a bird refuge and is famous for its Ligurian bees, which produce some of the finest honey in the world. But feel free to get as kinky as you want over there.)

The coastline is definitely one of Kangaroo Island’s highlights. The azure ocean crashes against the rugged, rocky shores at some points and gently glosses over stunning white sand beaches at others. As I hopped from beach to beach (pun intended), I was blown away by how different each was from one to the next. Some harbored wide stretches of soft sand and pellucid blue waters which seemed quite inviting for snorkelers and swimmers. Others were formed by intensely colored red rocks and jagged cliffs which greeted the crashing waves head on. The one common feature of all these stretches of coastline: no people. If you want a sequestered beach all to yourself, you’ve come to the right place. On the southern end of the island, you’ll find massive sand dunes that trickle down to the sea. This area, called Little Sahara, is popular for sand boarding, one of many outdoors activities that Kangaroo Island has to offer. Australian Sea Lions and New Zealand Fur Seals may be your only companions out there as you explore the untinged coast of this fascinating island paradise.

Now, about those ‘Roos. The entire time I was driving on the island, I had an eye peeled back looking for those bad boys. Where the heck were they?? I knew they were out there. I mean, I didn’t expect they’d be hanging out at the gas station bumming Funyuns or anything, but I was frustrated that I hadn’t seen one in a whole week in Oz, and especially within my first hour on an island named after the damn things! I saw a few dead ones on the side of the road, but that didn’t really satisfy my visual appetite (or actual appetite) if you know what I mean. But with scenery like that, it’s easy to forgive the island for not producing what I was obsessing over right off the bat. I had already seen an abundance of wildlife: sea lions, koalas, sheep, cows, rare birds, possums, fur seals, various reptiles, small wallabies…someone even mentioned seeing penguins somewhere. But I was after the ‘roos. My dedicated research should have reminded me that most kangaroo species are nocturnal, as well as being crepuscular (check out the vocab on this gringo ;)), meaning they are most active near dawn and dusk, often using these times for feeding. Ok…so I just had to wait until dusk I guess. No problem Jack.

I had some time to kill, so I decided to go on a little bushwalk (hike). With one-third of the island protected in conservation parks and Wilderness Protection Areas, you don’t have to go far to find a good route to stretch the legs. I came across what looked like a decent trail, packed my bag with water and electrolytes and hit the bush. Now, I’m not even kidding when I tell you this part of the story. My wildest expectations wouldn’t have prepared me for what was about to occur in the first few minutes into my hike. So I’m walking along this path, surveying the landscape to compose a photo. I decided to stray from the trail a bit in order to gain a better visual vantage point. I had to meander through what I remember to be a ramshackled and rusted barbed wire fence to get where I wanted to be. It was thick scrub here so my visibility was limited to whatever natural obstacle I had to maneuver around next. I carefully pass through some scraggy vegetation, turn a corner…and BAM! Big ‘ol kangaroo sitting right there! Less than 12 feet away! Ka-BOOM! Scared the pasty vegemite right out of me (almost literally)! The furry freak of nature grunted, leaped up and bolted out of there like a…well…like a scared kangaroo that had just been abruptly rolled up on from behind by a beef jerky scented bushwalker! It happened so quick I couldn’t even snap a decent photo, just this semi-blurry one (as my parasympathetic nervous system wouldn’t allow me to compose myself properly). We were both startled, and my jumpy little marsupial friend was long gone before I could even say G’day. Ladies and gentlemen, I had found my first ‘roo! 🙂 An extreme close-up encounter in the wild! Though brief and heart-jolting, it was awesome! My days of envying Jack Hanna would soon be a distant memory.

As sunset neared, I would get several more opportunities to see the local ‘roos that day, as they began to emerge from their mid-day shelters to explore the land and find food. They would even hang out on the side of the road near dusk, which makes for a very adventurous “video game-like” driving experience (remembering the roadkill I had seen earlier). I was able to get pretty close to a rather large one that evening. As the late Steve Irwin would say: “She was a beauty, mate!”. They are quite timid animals in the wild. It kept an eye on me with an equal amount of curiosity as I did with it, but remained calm and even let me approach within a surprisingly intimate distance. When you see a kangaroo close up, you realize how well these animals are equipped to seriously whoop some butt if they need to! With those hind leg muscles, 2-inch claws and a powerful tail as thick as an anaconda, you don’t need instincts to tell you to keep your distance, just eyes. In saying this, they seemed quite peaceful and gentle in my experience with them. They are a special creature to witness and interact with. I snapped my photos, set my camera down and hung out for a while, enjoying this amazing scene of one of Nature’s most exotic animals in its native habitat, allowing me to be an uninvited and trusted guest into its placid domain. This was an experience my mind could only wishfully imagine for prior to coming here. This was Kangaroo Island. I had come a long, long way to see it, as have many others…and another satisfied visitor was about to return home to share its wonderful story.

Here’s some more scenes from my 2 days on Kangaroo Island…

Categories: Travel | Tags: Aussie, Australia, beaches, coastline, hiking, island, kangaroo, Kangaroo Island, nature, Nikon, ocean, outdoors, Oz, paradise, photography, Remarkable Rocks, South Australia, Travel, vacation, wallabies, Wildlife, wildlife photography | Leave a comment

Familiar paths, familiar faces…

Posted on May 24, 2013 by Damian James

On my first trip to Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula in 2011, the one thing I was most fascinated to learn about and photograph was the lifestyle of the modern Maya people. After all, it is among the most mysterious and renowned cultures to ever make it into the history books. If I were gonna travel here, I was gonna be sure to experience some true modern-day Mayan flavor…and not let the movie Apocalypto haunt me with images of black jaguars and savage natives chasing me through the jungle. I also had to find out about all of this “end of the world” ballyhoo. So, I set out to explore some villages in the Mayan heartland to meet the locals and take some “authentic” photos of life beyond the tourist decoys, sunburned drunks and tequila-soiled beach bars of Cancun and the Riviera. Not that I have anything against sunburned drunks, I’ve been one on several occasions. But I have matured as a traveler, far beyond my port-crashing Navy days of old, and my mission for this particular visit was to ensure that the best “shots” I would get during the trip would be the ones produced by the camera, not by Pedro the bartender.

During my 2 weeks there in 2011, I visited a dozen or so villages and met some of the nicest and most generous people that you can imagine. I would speak with them, accept an invite into their homes (have a few beers at some, play with the kids at others) and learn a little about who they are and what life is like there. It was exactly what I had been looking for. This was the “real life” that most travelers never get a chance to see. Of course, before I would bid farewell to each of my new friends I met on that trip, I had to work my camera into the game. I would kindly ask for a photo as a keepsake for my travel archives and would be pleasantly, and sometimes shyly, granted permission every time. Luckily, the Maya are nothing like those stuck-up broads at the Playboy convention who demand $15 per photo.

So, on my return trip to the Yucatán this past April with my girlfriend, I thought it would be really cool to visit my village friends once again and present them with a copy of their photo. It was the sort of project I had wanted to do for a long time, but was just waiting for the right opportunity. I whipped up about 14 prints, ironed out my maps and made my way back through the same village route that I had traveled back in 2011, on a mission to find each of my photo subjects where I had originally met them. How would they react? I had no idea, but would soon find out. My first stop was the village of Nuevo Durango, 6th house on the left. I had met Señor Jose here a year and a half earlier. Señor Jose will always represent my introduction to the world of the modern Maya, as he was the first person I met in my travels there. I remember first seeing his innocent, puppy dog eyes and smiling face as I entered the village. It struck me as an irresistible opportunity to get a nice portrait of a local Maya man in his traditional home. I knew I had to stop and say hello. In that initial encounter, I introduced myself to him and commented that I liked his house. Next thing you know, he invited me in and showed me the inside of his rustic, one room “palapa” hut. This was my first time inside a Mayan dwelling. It was awesome to see. The simple life is truly defined here…hammock for a bed, a weathered wingback chair, basic cooking and eating utensils, an old television, mini-fridge, and plenty of tools for collecting food and cultivating the land. He spoke of his life there and gave me some delicious guava fruit from a tree in front of his house. I asked for a photo, and he agreed. After getting a great portrait, I said goodbye and I left feeling like I’d just had the coolest experience I would probably end up having on the entire trip…first village, first stop, first encounter. Upon arrival this second time around, I was eager to reconnect with Señor Jose . Unfortunately, he wasn’t home when we arrived, but his son who lived across the street told me he was around town and didn’t know when he would return. His son was probably wondering if I was a government liaison looking to bring his father in for questioning or something. I explained how I knew his father and showed him another portrait of a gentleman I had met in one of the fields on the outskirts of the same town. I asked the son if he knew where the other guy lived. He responded, in Spanish, “Yes, that’s Don Siviliano. He lives 3 houses down.” Luckily for me, the average village only has about 200 people or so. A local directory service probably isn’t in high demand when you can just stop and show someone a photo of who you’re looking for. 🙂 So, I decided to go knock on Mr. Siviliano’s door while I waited for Señor Jose. My girlfriend and I approached the house and saw a man lying undisturbed on a hammock inside. I walked up to the door and greeted him. I immediately recognized the face as Mr. Siviliano’s. He appeared to be dressed more in “vacation mode” than when I first met him working in the corn fields under the harsh mid-day sun in 2011. His flowing silver hair was naturally impressive, as its shorter version had been tucked under a hat when I last saw him. I asked “Do you remember me?” He grinned instantly, nodded, and was sort of speechless with surprise, as you can imagine. I mean, how often do foreigners show up to your door with a photo of you that they took on a previous trip to your country? I’m guessing never. I imagine it doesn’t happen in the remote villages of Mexico much either. After his initial bewilderment settled, he thanked me for the photo with a humble grin and asked me, “How much do I owe you?”. My girl and I melted from his warmth (in addition to the blistering heat of Mexico’s interior) and explained to him that it was a gift. I told him that he looked thinner and younger and he responded with a chuckle and a “muchas gracias”. The universal compliment, works every time. :] After a brief conversation and “catch up” session, he graciously posed for an updated portrait, thanked us and wished us well in our travels. That was something out of the “super cool” book right there. I knew right then I was really gonna enjoy this journey. After visiting Mr. Siviliano, we decided to drive through the village hoping to spot Señor Jose. I handed my girlfriend his photo and directed her to “look out for this guy”. We saw an old man approaching us on a bicycle cart (typically used by locals to haul wood, food, or building materials). With an exuberant tone, I said “This could be him, it looks like him.”. As he got closer, sure enough, we confirmed his identity and were both elated with excitement to find the first friend I had ever made in the Mayan world. I stopped the car, showed him his picture and he immediately displayed that infectious smile and made the instant connection with the same amount of enthusiasm as Mr. Siviliano. We decided to meet back at his home to reminisce a bit. Señor Jose is one of the most endearing people you will ever meet. He opened his doors to us and welcomed us inside to chat and escape the heat. The inside of his home seemed like nothing had moved since I first saw it almost 2 years ago, almost like some sort of exhibit. He seemed really pleased with the photo and the efforts we made to visit him. He just kept thanking us and giving us hugs of gratitude. He shared his story with us that his wife had died 25 years ago and that he’s lived by himself ever since. He is a genuine, hard-working man who seems to endure with the guidance of the blissful memories of his past. I really enjoyed visiting with Señor Jose. I politely set him up for his “2013 portrait”, he posed graciously and he hugged us each once again as we made our way onward to our next destination. I hope to reunite with Mr. Siviliano and Señor Jose again someday. Maybe I’ll bring my DJ gear along and we can throw a block party. The next stop on my quest was in the village of Tres Reyes. I had met a family there with whom I had spent the most time on my previous trip. A few new roads in town threw my bearings and memory off as to the exact location of their home, but a nice local villager pointed us in the right direction upon seeing the photo of the family. This was the home of Doña Dora. This was a really interesting visit, because when I said goodbye to them last time, I mentioned that I’d like to return sometime and they gave me a phone number and said that I should call them if I ever came back so they could prepare a nice meal and provide accommodation. I view that as friendly dialogue, sort of a general and casual invitation, not really expected to be acted upon literally. So, I didn’t call. Just showed up. I guess I like the element of surprise. In hindsight, a deliciously prepared home-cooked meal would have really hit the spot upon arriving the second time around. The family was really surprised to see me walking up to the house, unannounced, with some photos and a few toys for the kids, as they would let me know: “Wow, you should have called us, we wanted to cook you a nice meal! We were waiting for your call last year but never heard from you.” They really wanted to show off their cooking skills apparently! This family is sweeter than Mayan Chocolate Cream Pie. (The Mayans did cultivate the first known cocoa plantations ya know.) Visiting with them and seeing their home is how I would describe the typical Mayan family living in the 21st century. There are 5 kids and 3 adults, all living under one roof constructed of palm fronds layered over a frame of vertical wood beams supported by a concrete foundation. The doorways seem designed with the height of a Smurf in mind, which is always fun for my 6’1” skeletal frame. The home is divided in two, separating the living space from the kitchen space. All you’ll find inside are the bare necessities to get by. There’s some hammocks, cooking utensils, pots and pans over an open fire pit, a wooden table, buckets for storage and carrying water, farming equipment, and some scattered clothing and toys for the kids. They raise pigs, chickens and turkeys for food and commerce and access water from a well behind the home. When you talk with them, you would think they live the most comfortable lifestyle in all of the Peninsula. They all smile from ear to ear, and seem generous beyond words. It was a real treat to see how a family of 8 can live a happy and self-sustaining life with the absolute minimum of resources and amenities. I actually had 4 photos to give to them, as the kids were so adorable to shoot that last time around. They delightedly posed for a few new photos, showed us around the house and reinforced their invitation for next time with an updated phone number. Believe me, I will be redeeming that invite for some Mayan home cookin’ next time ’round! I had several more stops and photos to hand out in the remaining days of the trip. To my delight, I would find everyone I was looking for in a handful of villages scattered throughout the area. From the cute kid who had painted his face like a Mayan warrior to the lady who crafted beautiful hammocks in her front yard…they were all just there, not waiting for me to come by, obviously, but it had almost seemed that way. They all expressed the same sense of shyness, gratitude, surprise and openness to being photographed once again. There was one lady, however, who wasn’t quite ready to have her new photo taken upon my arrival and request at an early hour of the morning. Though she did ask me if I could come back in an hour so she could put some makeup on, lol. Women will be women no matter where you go! She did clean up pretty nice, I won’t lie. Then there was another old lady I was looking for who I had met in an outdoors market, but the market was closed upon arriving the second time. I was about to throw in the towel on that one until I got up off the stool for the 12th round and I decided to ask a few ladies that were sitting next to my rental car watching a soccer game if they happened to recognize the woman in the photo. When you get a response from a random bystander of “That is my mom!”, that’s when you know this was all meant to be. 🙂 She asked her young daughter to take me to find “grandma”, who was not too far from where I had photographed her the first time. Grandma was wearing a similar traditional Mayan dress as she was in my original image, so I knew it would be a great photo to show the “then and now”. Her friends giggled as I set her up for a photo, and she maintained her composure while I snapped a few images and thanked her for being such a wonderful model.

After finding “grandma”, there was only 1 portrait left to deliver. I knew finding my last photo subject would be a little tricky, as I had met him at a roadside fruit stand on the side of a highway about 3 hours south. Luckily, I was able to narrow it down to about a 25-30 mile stretch. Keeping my eyes peeled among the dozens of roadside fruit vendors, I eventually recognized the stand where I had found the man with the blue shirt and smartly-styled straw hat, but it was an empty stand. My technique of asking around to locate someone hadn’t failed me yet, so I gave it another shot. The vendor across the street confirmed the identity and location of my photo subject, saying he would probably show up in about an hour. My thoughts: “Hmmmm…an hour…man I’d love to hang out and present him with his photo…but I have a long drive back and a full day of snorkeling and beach bumming lined up…what if an hour turns to 2 hours??…time stands still for everyone in this part of the world…who knows when he’ll show up…but it’s my favorite photo of them all…he’ll be thrilled to see me…I really want a new photo of the guy…Caribbean is calling my name…hungry girlfriend in the car…damn it’s hot out here!…agghhhhh…ceviche and cold beer with my feet in the sand…uh…SOLD!” I’m a sucker for ceviche and cold beer! So, here is the photo of the man with the blue shirt and smartly-styled straw hat…left exactly where I found him, with a little note tacked behind. I would have loved to see his face when he arrived to find a mysteriously placed 8×10 portrait of himself waiting for him at his workplace later that day. I imagine his smile would stretch even further than it had in the picture. Maybe I’ll have another opportunity to find out from him someday. Like I said…it was all meant to be. 😉

Categories: Travel | Tags: culture, Ek Balam, jungle, Latin America, Maya, Mayan, Mexico, Nikon, Nuevo Durango, people, photography, portrait photography, Quintana Roo, Travel, Tres Reyes, vacation, villages, Yucatan | 2 Comments

Brazil! My Top 10 favorite spots

Posted on February 14, 2013 by Damian James

Mention Brazil to most people and their mind instantly conjures up images of bronzed beach bodies, soccer (futebol…oops), samba and Carnival. Yes, the aforementioned are definitively Brazilian…but there is so much more to this country than what the “mainstream/media” mentality suggests. First, they speak Portuguese in Brazil, not Spanish, so I’m happy to clear up that little misconception right off the bat (though I’m still considered a “gringo” in both languages). In addition to the stunning beaches and festive atmosphere that is widely promoted with the Brazilian label, there exists a bevy of cultural, historical and natural sights that every visitor would be keen to keep on their radar. Here’s a list of my Top 10 favorite places in Brazil (in no particular order, cuz they’re all awesome). I can only speak of the places I have been to, so please don’t get riled because I haven’t listed the Amazon on here (it’s on the bucketlist…I’m working on it).

JERICOACOARA

When people speak of “wanting to get away from everything”, Jericoacoara is the place they are imagining. A remote village on Brazil’s northern coast, 150 miles from the closest big city and only accessible by bumpy dirt roads, Jericoacoara is a true “known little secret” on the Brazilian map of secluded and wildly beautiful places. Sand dunes and sea dominate the landscape here, with the wind constantly shaping the dunes like a sculptor under the sun. It’s topographical uniqueness, with massive sand dunes bordering the paradise-blue Atlantic Ocean for miles and miles, makes for a natural setting unlike any place you might imagine. Though Jeri has been on the radar of the independent traveler for some time now, it has retained its unspoiled village character and “getaway” vibe…with no paved roads, stoplights or high rises…nothing more than about six sandy streets filled with just enough cozy hotels & bungalows, restaurants, bars and shops to accommodate its visitors. Due to its unique geographic location, it is one of the few places in all of Brazil where you can see the sun set over the Atlantic, which has become a daily tradition, as everyone treks up to the top of Sunset Dune each evening to watch the last bit of sun fall behind the horizon. I’m from California (home of the perfect sunsets 😉 ), so typically it wouldn’t be a big deal to me…but in a place like Jericoacoara, every minute is a moment to remember. I knew I was in a different kind of place when a stray cow strolled right past my table while I was eating outside at a local pizzeria one night. Poor guy was probably on the menu the next day.

COSTA VERDE

Between the states of São Paulo and Rio de Janeiro lies perhaps the most beautiful stretch of coast in all of Brazil. Called the “Green Coast” for a reason, this lush and dramatically stunning slice of mountainous coastline travels through what remains of the original Atlantic Rainforest, passing along some of the best beaches in the country. The coastal road winds its way around verdant mountains, forest, quaint beach towns and dramatic views of the Atlantic for nearly the entire stretch…providing access to a host of tucked away beaches where one can stop and set up shop in the idyllic setting of their choice. Yup, this drive pretty much ruined it for all the beaches back home. Sorry Newport and Huntington, please don’t take it personal.

RIO DE JANEIRO

Home of the Carioca, samba, The Girl From Ipanema, Copacabana…Rio’s reputation surely proceeds itself. Brazil’s most popular city also has one of its most dramatic natural settings, and plenty of sights and sounds to keep you entertained for the duration of your time there. With world-renowned beaches like Ipanema and Copacabana, one doesn’t have to stray too far from the coast to enjoy the best of what Rio offers up to its visitors. There is a constant energy felt here…whether it’s the carefree and friendly beach vibe of the local Cariocas or the spirit of Carnival warming up for its grand appearance each February. Rio will keep you moving to its native beat, and invite you to sample more the longer you stay there. After touring the “must-see” sights like Christ The Redeemer and Sugar Loaf, I recommend ignoring your hotel receptionist’s inauspicious advice and take a tour into one of Rio’s many favelas (shanty towns) for an opportunity to experience the “other side” of the city. The day-to-day life in the favela provides a fascinating and raw contrast to the upscale, heavily-promoted tourist side of the city. In spite of the difficult living conditions you will find here, the people who live in the favela are extremely genuine and welcoming…retaining the same smile and hospitality that you will find throughout the entire country.

SALVADOR

When I think of what makes Brazil unique to the rest of the world, one can’t deny that the African influence has shaped this culture more than anything else. Salvador is the place where it all began. As a former capital and center during the colonial slave trade era, Salvador has remained the heart and soul of Afro-Brazilian culture. The influence is profound in its music, dance, food, religious practices and physical make-up of its people. The roots of Capoeira (a Brazilian martial art form of dance which evolved from the slaves) were planted here, and many of Brazil’s most prominent artists and celebrities call Salvador their home. (This is Adriana Lima’s turf!) The city is vibrant and colorful, with beautiful colonial architecture found throughout its historic city center (Pelourinho) and plenty of beaches to escape to once the sight-seeing is done. Known as Brazil’s capital of happiness, the people of Salvador (and it’s state of Bahia) have a reputation of being relaxed, easygoing, and fun-loving…even by Brazillian standards. (When I say relaxed, I mean like 15 minutes to get a glass of water at a restaurant kind of “relaxed”. But you’ll get used to it. They always service with a smile.) 🙂 There is an infectious rhythm to the city, and you won’t go far without hearing it, feeling it or finding some sort of party that seems to be never-ending throughout the streets of Salvador. Speaking of parties, its Carnival is considered by most Brazilians to be the best and most authentic in the country…even better than that one down in Rio. One friendly eating tip: Just beware of that coconut oil that is traditionally used in many of the regional dishes here. As Tom Hanks discovered in the movie Cast Away, coconut can act as a natural laxative. 😛

OLINDA

This World Heritage Site is the colonial gem of Brazil (I haven’t been to Ouro Preto yet, so I’m gonna roll with this one). Olinda is filled with some of the finest 16th century buildings, churches, gardens, parks, plazas and photogenic streets of anywhere in the country. It’s setting is ideal, perched up on a hill overlooking the Atlantic Ocean and the surrounding tropical landscape. Olinda makes for a very inviting travel destination for those who wish to enjoy a combination of natural beauty and history. Time truly slows down here. Don’t go walking too fast down those cobblestone streets, as you might trip on an oversized stone or run over an old man with a cane who is simply enjoying his afternoon stroll. Olinda is also known for hosting a very colorful and lively Carnival celebration…and it’s free for everyone, unlike those in Salvador and Rio. This area of the coast has been known for having shark activity, so you might want to stick to enriching your knowledge of colonial history here rather than testing your surfing skills.

FOZ DO IGUAÇU

Recently voted as one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature, Iguazu Falls should be at the very top of your “must see” places in Brazil. An awe-inspiring sight to say the least, it is the widest waterfall in the world with the highest volume of water flowing through it. With one side in Brazil and one side in Argentina, you can appreciate the falls from different views in two different countries. Though the Argentine side offers the most intimate and close-up view, the Brazilian side gives you the full wide-angle perspective and allows you to walk out into the center of the falls and be surrounded by 360 degrees of nature’s power at it’s finest. If you’re like me and your bladder sensitivity is cued by running water, you might want to go to the bathroom before visiting the falls.

NATAL

Sand, beach, sun, dunes, dune-buggies, camels, tropical scenery, wind-surfing, kite-surfing…yup, Natal is one big playground of outdoors fun! Lying 6 degrees south of the equator, the sun shines on Natal for over 3,000 hours per year. My math isn’t great…but that sounds like a heck of a lot of sunlight to compliment all those outdoors activities (spf-100 will do fine). The city itself is quite modern and interesting in its own right, but most people come here to hit the dunes and explore the coast. With that much sun, who wants to be indoors anyway?

PARATI

One of the best preserved colonial towns in the country, Parati (or Paraty) is a lovely and charming place located near the southern end of the state of Rio. This historic coastal village, which thrived as a major port during the gold rush, is like a living museum, home to some of the best Portuguese colonial buildings in all of Brazil. It’s original cobbled streets, colorful architecture and attractive baroque churches can be enjoyed with a leisurely stroll through the Historic Center District, where no automobiles (except for taxis) are permitted to enter. The nearby forests, waterfalls, islands and emerald-green sea make for a beautiful setting in a very relaxed natural environment. Parati is also one of the major producers of Cachaça, the popular Brazilian spirit (similar to rum). If you haven’t tried it in Brazil’s national drink, the Caipirinha, please heed my expert and experienced advice and drink it slooooow! The morning-after effects can be quite unforgiving.

ILHABELA

Ilhabela, situated 4 miles off the coast of the lovely state of São Paulo, is an archipelago made up of 6 islands. The largest and most visited island, São Sebastião, is typically referred to as Ilhabela. With only a few roads and over 40 beaches on the island, visitors will find it to be the perfect escape from the more heavily trafficked areas (I’m talking travelers, not drugs) between São Paulo and Rio. Translated in Portuguese as “beautiful island”, Ilhabela is a natural paradise of dense tropical jungle, volcanic peaks, uncrowded beaches and glimmering blue water. There are great hiking trails that lead to some of the remote areas of the island where road access is non-existent. Many of these trails will lead you to several of the 400+ waterfalls found on the island. If you’re driving on the island, don’t be afraid to continue on the main road once you reach its unpaved portion. It’s a bit bumpy without a 4WD, but I promise you that the best beaches and plenty of soft sand will be waiting for your tender buttocks at the end. 🙂

FLORIANOPOLIS

Florianopolis is one of those places you never want to leave. A diverse and developed island off the coast of Santa Catarina in the southern part of Brazil, “Floripa” (as the locals and “cool” tourists call it) has something for everyone. There are 42 scenic beaches that attract people from all over the world, some beaches with a “see and be seen” reputation, others more low-key and family oriented. Florianopolis is known for having a high quality of life. It is a University town, attracting many students from upper-middle class families from the mainland. The cosmopolitan downtown area of Florianopolis is quite modern, with large shopping malls, high-end restaurants and many glamorous bars and nightclubs. The seafood is awesome! I had some shrimp so succulent I almost bit my finger off.

As one of the surfing capitals of Brazil, Floripa invites sun-loving beach bods to gather on its white sand beaches throughout the summer, especially during the prime surfing season. Those who want to enjoy other outdoor activities can grab their sandboards and head over to Joaquina beach to hit the dunes or head to the inland lagoon to chill out on the water. The southern half of the island is more rustic and far less populated. Here you will find sleepy fisherman villages and a quiet countryside dotted with traditional Portuguese homes and red roof-tops in the style of the original Azorean settlers. Like I said…something for everyone, hard to pack up and leave. I had planned to go for two days, ended up staying for five. Would have stayed six months like the Australian tourists do if I could have, but that job thing always finds a way to ruin my extended travel plans. So keep your itinerary flexible. The tourist boom has already begun to shake in Foripa, but that’s no reason not to go and share in the good vibrations!

BAHIA

Ok, so I already listed my top 10. But I’d be doing an extreme injustice to the country if I didn’t promote one more region of Brazil, which is probably my favorite state as a whole: the state of Bahia. I mentioned Salvador, the capital, but there is SO much more to discover and enjoy in the state of Bahia that I just can’t resist to give it a “more than honorable mention” here. 🙂 Did I already note that the people in Bahia are among the friendliest you will ever meet? No? Well it’s true. Beaches…endless miles of them. 685 miles to be exact…the most of any state in Brazil. Islands – check. (Morro do São Paulo is a pretty sweet spot if you want a nice lil’ island hop from Salvador.) Bahia is home to a mélange of laid-back and inviting inland and seaside villages, amazing natural parks and miles upon miles of unspoiled coastline just salivating in its desire be explored! Need I say more?? Ok. Gorgeously pristine beaches, swaying palms, fresh coconuts, amazing seafood, smiling faces…no wonder all the people from Rio and São Paulo told me to go to Bahia! So now I’m telling you…you don’t know Brazil until you’ve been to Bahia. And now you know 😉

Categories: Travel | Tags: Bahia, beach, Brasil, Brasil travel, Brazil, Brazil travel, Brazilian, Carnaval, Carnival, coast, colonial, Copa Mundial, falls, Florianopolis, Foz do Iguaçu, Iguazu, Iguazu Falls, Ilhabela, islands, Jericoacoara, Latin America, Natal, nature, Olinda, paradise, Parati, Paraty, relaxation, Rio de Janeiro, Salvador, Sao Paulo, South America, sunset, Travel, vacation, viajes, waterfalls, World Cup, World Cup 2014, World Cup Brazil | 6 Comments

Full Circle

Posted on November 28, 2012 by Damian James

It all began in 1996. 19 years young. As a Navy serviceman, I was offered the very fortunate and life-changing opportunity to get stationed overseas…destination Spain. I had never traveled outside of U.S. borders. The next 3 years of my life would define my purpose, my passion and my tolerance for second-hand smoke, crazy mopeds, loud locals, rum & coke, pumping music all night at the discos, being lost in translation and transport…etc., etc. It was here where my curiosity came to life, my passion for travel and culture was rooted and my very first travel photos were snapped. It was also the first place I had seen a topless beach…(still looking for those photos).

When I left Spain, I was 22. I remember that feeling that I had when I first departed, like I had just been given the keys to the world. It was only a matter of time before I would be wishing to unlock the next door. So after 13 years of living a life that was propelled by my experiences in Spain, I finally got the opportunity to return to the land that had made me the person I am today. My friends kept telling me that Spain had changed a lot from our Navy days back in the late 90’s…but to me it was all too familiar upon arrival. A little confusion with the Madrid airport terminal/arrival set-up and lack of helpful communication from the rental car agents had delayed my meet-up time with my sister and brother-in-law by 2 hours. Not the best start to our trip. But, I had to heed my own advice, which I had wisely given to my travel companions: “When you get there, you have to leave convenience behind and just go with the flow”. What I was really thinking was: “Where’s the nearest bar?!”

Besides that initial setback, what was also familiar to me upon returning to this country was it’s ability to transport you to a magical, Old World and almost surrealistic place while traveling within it’s borders. There is an expression I read recently: “When you travel to Spain, you must surrender to Spain”. This couldn’t be more true. Spain will demand all of your senses. You must oblige in order to understand what this country is all about…and what it’s people live for. It’s traditions are strong, deep and wonderfully shaped by the many cultures who once descended on this land and left their mark. There is the powerfully captivating, gypsy-influenced music and dance of flamenco and Sevillana…the spirit of bullfighting and it’s legendary matadors…remnants of a glorious past from the days of Columbus’ explorations to the New World…the serenity of the pueblos blancos…wine perfected to please anyone’s taste…and some seriously delicious food (don’t even get me started on that heavenly Jamón Ibérico, that’s a whole other blog!). There are constant reminders of the Roman, Moorish and Catholic Monarchy eras throughout the country…and a history, scenery and architecture of unimaginable splendor and abundance. You must taste it, feel it, smell it, hear it, see it and let it work it’s way into your soul…(and your wallet, unfortunately…damn that Euro!).

Now there’s some things about Spain that will never cease to leave their earnest impressions upon it’s visitors. Follow me.

First, the Spanish are the loudest human beings on planet Earth. Call it passionate speech, pure corporeal expression…whatever. They talk louder than an angry mob of Italian brokers with dysfunctional hearing-aids at the NY Stock Exchange. Maybe since there’s so many old people in the country everyone thinks they have to speak at +20 decibels louder than the normal human speech level. I don’t know, but you will swear everyone you hear on the street who is engaged in a public conversation is ready to punch the lights out of whoever they are talking to. Their speech is rhythmic and distinguishingly Castilian, yet can often sound angry and irritable. But, from what I’ve learned, it’s just the unfiltered passion of expression that runs deep in the Iberian bloodline. You hear it in their music, you see it in their dance and you definitely taste it in their food (oh, Gazpacho Andaluz, how I miss you dearly…). I just bring earplugs along so I don’t have to hear the neighbors screaming to each other about how the peaceful the baby looks while sleeping.

Second, you will often find yourself lost as a traveler in Spain. Let me repeat, you will be lost and will be frustrated and will curse the fools who forgot to post the sign pointing you in the proper direction after your umpteenth roundabout u-turn to get back in the right direction. Just accept it. Like I told my travel companions, it just makes the beer and food taste all the more better once you finally get to where you are going. No one is on time anyway, so you’re never late.

Third, you will eat the best olives you have ever eaten in your life, and you will dream about them once you are gone. You will try to order olives at your local Mediterranean restaurant when you return home to try and get the “authentic” Spanish variety…but you will be disappointed and soon realize that you will never eat olives anywhere in the world like you will in Spain. You will become an addict, like I did, and will want to brush your teeth with olive oil every morning just to remind you of those perfect little savory Mediterranean delicacies.

Fourth, you will say “Holy Shit!” on numerous occasions while sightseeing throughout the country. I’m talking about seeing stuff that you won’t even believe you are looking at. Towering Roman aqueducts over 2000 years old, beautiful castles straight out of a fairytale novel, medieval towns that will take your breath away (and your side rearview mirrors if you try to drive through some of their impossibly narrow streets), inspiring landscapes that will transport you to the days of Don Quixote, cathedrals and mosques of impossible beauty, scale and grandeur, and monuments and plazas of such artistry that will instantly drain your camera battery. Yes, you will curse at the sight of these things. No worries though, there is a church at every corner for you to confess your sins.

Finally (to sum up my thoughts), you will leave Spain knowing that you have traveled to one of the most vibrant, impression-lasting, inspiring and history-transforming countries the world has ever known. Chances are, you will be back for more. After 13 years away, it wasn’t so much that Spain had changed. But I sure had, all for the better….and I have Spain to thank for that. It made my new experience there that much richer. In the words of Ernest Hemingway: “If you travel to only one foreign country in your lifetime, be sure to travel to Spain.” I’d have to concur. Although, he also said “Always do sober what you said you’d do drunk”….and that didn’t work out too good for me.

Gracias, España

Categories: Travel | Tags: Andalucia, Andalusia, Espana, Europe, Madrid, Nikon, photography, Segovia, Sevilla, Spain, Toledo, Travel, vacation | 12 Comments

High desert fashion…Bolivian style

Posted on March 31, 2012 by Damian James

People often ask me, “What’s your favorite country that you’ve visited?” I always find it to be an impossible question to answer. It’s like comparing your children, I imagine. They are all unique, and you love them all (some more stressful than others) but there’s always that one that you like to brag about. For me, Bolivia is that one I ALWAYS brag about. What do I love about it? Simple, it’s like no other place you will ever visit in your life. Sadly, Bolivia often escapes the travel radar of most people. Mountainous, rugged and landlocked between the Andes and the Amazon, it’s not the easiest place to navigate. It doesn’t have the stunning coastline and international flair of it’s neighbors Brazil, Argentina and Chile. It’s also the poorest country in South America. But what it does have, thanks to its isolation, is a world of exotic landscapes, deep-rooted indigenous traditions, and some of the most interesting and fashionable natives you’ll ever come in contact with. For the intrepid explorer looking for a one-of-a-kind travel experience, you best mark Bolivia on your bucket list!

In the Bolivian Highlands, market Sunday in Tarabuco is especially colorful, as Bolivians love to put on their Sunday best and hit the town to buy, sell and barter goods with their fellow countrymen and tourists. This all-day swap meet begins bright and early (like 4am early) for many of the local Yampara people who walk 4 to 6 hours up and over the mountains from their ranches and homes to participate in the weekly market. Though my bartering with Red Vines didn’t work too well here, I did get a nice deal on a wooden flute and a bag of coca leaves. I really wanted to buy a charango (Andean stringed instrument) but I spent all my Bolivianos on tips for the locals who granted me some awesome photo opportunities. (Work that scarf baby!)

So let me just tell you about the Bolivians up here. As a photographer, my senses always ignite when I see raw life, tradition and color blending together in a visual concoction so fluid that my eyes struggle to keep pace. I’ve never seen a more fashion-conscious indigenous people…especially a tradition of dress that extends to the men as well. Women are pretty universal when it comes to wanting to look nice, but the dudes up here take “superstylin” to another level. Their traditional Yampara outfits not only preserve their identity, but they also advertise their location of origin to others. The men here sport colorful ponchos called “unkus”, many with horzontal stripes and regional colors. Scarves, patterned sweaters and woolen caps called “chullas” are also common threads among males. The women, known as “cholitas”, are typically seen in an outfit consisting of an apron over a layered skirt (“pollera”), a blouse, sweater and a rainbow-colored shawl used for everything from carrying babies to firewood. Their signature hats and braided hair seem to be a critical accessory to their look, along with those striped hand bags you see everywhere. It all works together quite nicely. In the words of my Aunt Cheryl, their style is “casual, yet smart…self-assured and oddly elegant”. Now let’s talk about those hats…

The one feature that is undeniably “Bolivian” is their hats. They love ’em! They rock those cool hats like breakdancers rocked Converse in the 80’s. They come in all styles, shapes, sizes and colors…straw hats, bowler hats, cowboy brimmed, alpaca wool beanies, crazy turtle shell looking things…quite an impressive variety. I offered to trade my baseball cap for one guy’s dusty Clint Eastwood looking Stetson, with no success. (Hard to find a Brewers fan in the Andes, let alone anywhere outside of Wisconsin). For women, the choice of hat frequently signals marital status. (Must be nice for the dudes!). Single women wear wool hats and married women wear leather. Among the most popular for women is the bowler hat (“bombin”), introduced by British railway workers in the 1920’s. There is a common saying about the bowler hat: “Born in Britian, perfected by Bolivia”. Some wear it straight up, some to the side. Hat styles change every year: color, height and width of the brim. I can just picture the cholita gossip around the local market…”OMG, look at her…that 2 inch brim is SO last year!”

The Bolivians don’t dress to impress one another, they dress in a way that represents where they come from and their pride of being indigenous. It is important for them to keep tradition alive. Tradition is at the heart of their culture…and they protect it well. Not to mention, they look pretty damn good doing it! And that’s just one of the many reasons I love Bolivia. It’s probably a good thing that it has been over-looked by mass tourism over the years. There is an old world charm and purity here that is untainted by the outside world. I highly recommend a visit. Just remember to ditch your coca leaves at the border!

Categories: Travel | Tags: Bolivia, Latin America, Market, Nikon, photography, South America, Tarabuco, Travel, vacation | 6 Comments

The Great Aussie Beer Shed

Posted on February 9, 2012 by Damian James

(Echuca, Australia) One of the highlights of my trip to Australia, The Great Aussie Beer Shed is one of those out-of-the-way places you won’t hear a peep about from travel agents and tour guides. It’s an independent traveler’s (and beer enthusiast’s) oasis at the end of a dusty road in the middle of somewhere/nowhere Victoria, Australia. I had taken the 3-hour drive up this way from Melbourne to see the Murray River (Australia’s version of the Mississippi) in the town of Echuca. Echuca is famous for its steamboats, which are still a common means of transportation in this old colonial outpost. Three hours on the road to see a steamboat and a river…yeah, a bit overzealous, I’ll admit. What was I thinking? I’ve been to Tom Sawyer’s island a dozen times at Disneyland and all I wanted to do was get back to Space Mountain. Don’t know what I was doing up here really. It was a nice drive through the countryside though, and a little taste of history…something most Australians will admit they have little of. A bit disappointed with the Huckleberry Finn section of this road trip, I decided to start heading back to civilization when I came upon a sign that pointed me in the direction of “The Great Aussie Beer Shed”. Now this sounded interesting. I was pretty damn thristy too. I decided to add this little de”tour” to the agenda. I cruised down a dirt road and arrived at a vacant parking lot next to a huge aluminum shed. No cars, no people, no dogs…nothin’. I walked around the grounds a bit and realized that this place was closed on this Monday afternoon. Crap! My palate was all fixed on throwing down some brews and at least seeing something more interesting than a riverboat on this 8-hour day trip. All of the sudden, as I’m walking back to my car, I hear a man shout out “How can I help ya mate?” It was the owner, Neil, a jolly looking Aussie country dude who seemed surprised to see any visitor that day. I told him I had come for the tour and he told me that he didn’t do any tours on Mondays. He asked where I was from, and I responded “I’m from California”. His face lit up in surprise as he came back with…”Bloody hell, you’ve come a long way for a beer mate! Come on in, I’ll give ya a look”. This was awesome…my own personal one-on-one tour with the maestro himself! We walked in, he had me spin a wheel to win a prize (won a hat and some beer holders), and we cracked a few Victoria Bitters to get things warmed up. Now this place is my idea of a great local travel experience! This guy was beyond just a beer expert or enthusiast. Brew culture and beer was in his blood (though mostly in his belly). He had the most impressive collection of beer cans, bottles, barrels, artifacts, antiques and knowledge of beer of anyone you could ever imagine! Over 17,000 beer cans from all over the world in his collection…including some vintage cans that were once banned for depicting sexy women on the front and some of the first beer cans ever manufactured. He explained how he started his collection over 37 years ago, as an “obsession”, and how he grew his beer shed to this 5000+ sq. foot aluminum “Smithsonian” of beer and brew memorabilia. He even took me out back beyond the shed, showed me some antique farming equipment and told me about his plans for expansion in the coming years. Neil was a great guy. He talked a mile a minute, the human version of an audio Wikipidea page…full of plenty of sharp, witty one-liners coated with that classic Aussie sense of humor. He walked and talked me through nearly every artifact and display that he had in his shed. Most importantly of all to Neil, he makes sure you are never empty handed while in his presence. The third round of VB’s pretty much guaranteed that I would be staying longer than I had originally planned. The tour was very informative and fun, and seemed to get more enjoyable after every sip. Of course, at the end of the tour I had to ask Neil the million dollar question: “So what’s your favorite beer?” His response: “Me next one mate!” So if you’re ever in Australia and are looking for a unique and authentic side trip up through the historic region surrounding the mighty Murray River, be sure not to miss The Great Aussie Beer Shed. Oh, and make sure you pick up a copy of Slim Dusty’s “Beer Drinking Songs of Australia”. 🙂